Jim Riggs smoking buckskin, l976. I don't know if he had already written "Blue Mountain Buckskin", his famous bible on dry scrape brain tanning, by then or not.He had dug sort of a posthole in the ground and started a low fire smoldering in it. (You don't want to use white fir--it imparts a urine odor to the hide.) Then he arranged the hide as kind of a teepee over the fire to smoke it. Any skin is composed of protein that turns into a high-grade wood glue if you de-hair and shred the raw hide and then simmer the shreds in a little water long enough (like 24 hours or more).
You normally want leather to be soft and pliable, but because of this inherent glue nature a raw hide glues up and gets stiff as a board every time it gets wet and then dries out. Smoking, the last stage of brain tanning, evidently coats the protein fibers with smoke chemicals that reduce this tendency for them to glue together and the tanned buckskin will still be fairly soft and flexible after it has become wet and then dried.
The general procedure for brain tanning any hide is to first scrape every bit of flesh and fat off of the freshly skinned hide. You can then spread the hide out to dry thoroughly and put it in storage for later work, or you can proceed with the brain tanning immediately, even while the hide is still wet.
Deer hair is brittle and breaks off easily so the hair is almost never left on a tanned deer hide as you might do for a sheepskin. To make it easier to remove the hair cleanly, you can sprinkle wet wood ashes on the hair, roll the wet hide up tightly, and bury it in damp soil beside the creek for a couple of days. The wood ashes have caustic alkaline chemicals (grocery store chemicals also work--but use caution--they are much more concentrated) that weaken the grain or hide coating that retains the hair. Just soaking the hide, without ashes, in the warm water of a pond or warm spring will work also. In either case you must be careful and not overdue it or the hide will rot. Check the hide once a day to see if the hair can be scrapped yet. Expect the chore to be a bit tedious. If the hair just falls out your hide is probably rotten and worthless.
Go back to post 05 of this blog and you'll see a photo of me wet-scrapping the hair from a hide with a stone scrapper. That hide was never dried out from the time it was skinned from a deer until after it was brained. I find wet scrapping easier and faster, but it doesn't produce nearly as aesthetic a final product as Jim's dry scrape method. The root of each hair is embedded in the grain, which is the very outer layer of the hide.
For nice soft and beautiful ceremonial buckskin you want to remove every bit of this grain as you scrape. But for just some serviceable leather, like for making a rough jacket or moccasins, it doesn't really matter whether you leave it on or take it off. Most commercial cowhide leather, like for shoes, still has the grain on--except suede shoes. With the grain left on the leather is a bit less soft and flexible.
After the hair is off, by either wet or dry scrape method, the hide is soaked in clean water until it is pliable and then as much water as possible is squeezed and wrong out of the skin. You then mash up the brains of the animal, they contain a special sort of oil, into some water--maybe a quart of water for a deer hide. I've generally just used raw brains, but there is some danger of contacting disease so boiled brains are safer. You then sponge up all of the brains-water mix into the damp hide.
If you just let that soggy hide dry thoroughly it would end up stiff as a board. When the hide is starting to dry, but still pliable, you start working it to keep the fibers from gluing tightly together. In an area where saplings were in profusion and could be spared I've taken a sapling, about four inches in diameter, and cut it off about six feet high and with a chisel shaped top. Then I would pull the drying hide back and forth over that chisel. When you get tired you rest and when you're rested it's time to pull some more. By the time the hide is bone dry it should be nice and flexible.
But if that hide gets wet again it will dry board hard unless you work it soft again. To make it dry reasonably soft you have to smoke it like Jim is doing in the above photo. He continually rearranged the hide, maybe every hour, to do a uniform job. The photo was taken in the backyard of Jim's La Grande, Oregon apartment. He graciously moved out somewhere and let us borrow his apartment when my daughter Jean was due to be born. Before and after that event we lived in a tent in the wooded hills out of Elgin.

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